Tanzania | Private Serengeti Vistas & Plains | 6 Nights Grumeti Reserves

A short light-aircraft flight from Arusha saw us touching down at Sasakwa Airstrip in the vast Grumeti Reserves for our Serengeti safari. We’d chosen this area because we loved the idea of being pampered in the midst of the sweeping Serengeti landscapes. After arriving at Faru Faru Lodge, we spent a few moments admiring the view down the gentle slope to the savannah beyond, and that was all it took to inspire us to get ready for our afternoon game drive. The black dots we’d seen turned out to be the vanguard of the Great Wildebeest Migration, and we spent several hours in among them, as they grazed on the plains. Many more would be arriving in the next few weeks – this was just the start. Later, we spoiled ourselves by soaking up the views from our bathtub, and turning in early. Our bed was so comfortable that we apparently slept through the Butamtam pride announcing its presence during the night. With coffees to go we were soon on the trail of the pride; our guide had heard them roaring before dawn. We found that the lion had climbed into an acacia for a better view of the assembled herds, but seemed in no hurry to hunt. The wildebeest themselves seemed unperturbed by their presence, being preoccupied with mastication and navigation. We opted for a relaxing afternoon in the peaceful surroundings of the spa. Enjoying a treatment while on safari was the best kind of indulgence! Over a leisurely breakfast on our private deck the following morning, we decided to take aim at a rather different kind of experience. After a quick lesson with the compound bow, I managed to score a bull’s eye, yet nobody was too keen to let me try shoot an apple off their head! In the heat of the day, the infinity pool proved irresistible for a dip, and then we headed out again in the late afternoon to see if the lion had roused themselves… As it became cooler, they went through an elaborate bonding ritual before moving off, using the long grass and lengthening shadows for cover.

Choosing two luxury Serengeti safari camps relatively close together turned out to be a great decision – the setting and character of each was different, and the transfer was really an extended Grumeti Reserves game drive, punctuated by a magnificent bush brunch under a spreading acacia tree. We loved the nostalgic style of Sabora Tented Camp – it felt as though we’d stepped back in time. The old-school opulence contrasted wonderfully with the surrounding landscape, although despite the attentions of the wildebeest, the grass was still remarkably lush. We were surrounded on every side by the swelling herds, although it was actually the zebra which came closest. I hadn’t realised how many of them, and how many topi, also migrate. A full afternoon enjoying the camp was definitely in order – spotting game with the bronze telescope and taking time out between each set of our tennis match for a courtside glass of Pimm’s. We’d joked with our fellow guests over dinner that there must be more to see here than wildebeest, and our guide took us up on the challenge, leading us on a morning game drive that showcased more of the Serengeti’s wildlife. The highlight was undoubtedly seeing a black rhino with her calf. We knew of them by reputation as rather belligerent, but this one seemed merely curious. Graceful grey-crowned crane caught my eye as we sipped sundowners on the deck back in camp, then dinner was served as the stars emerged over the plains and the moon cast acacia shadows across the savannah. Over morning coffee in our tent, we’d read about the camp’s community outreach programme. To see it in action, we settled on one of the 21 villages which benefit. En route, we spotted colobus monkey in the trees. I loved watching them jump, with the long white fur on their flanks and tails streaming out behind them. Our guide explained that, unusually for monkeys, they don’t have thumbs. My partner joked that that was why they hadn’t asked us for a lift, and the guide and I groaned. At the village, we saw how rainwater harvesting was transforming lives, enabling villagers to grow vegetables – some of which we’d be enjoying later. We spent our final morning by the pool, enjoying the butler service, and I captured a funny photo as a lone topi watched us with a doleful expression. It was almost as though he knew how sad we would be to leave Grumeti.

Our luxury Serengeti safari gave us the chance to experience the best of the Serengeti’s wildlife, and also the best of safari luxury. Of course the ultimate luxury was being able to spend time in these vast, untouched landscapes, and encounter wild animals in their natural habitats. The chance to witness the Great Wildebeest Migration, watch lion hunt, and see species that we’d not seen on previous trips to Africa – and still enjoy superb cuisine, massages, and some of the best wines we’d ever had – made for an unbeatable combination. Although the two luxury lodges we chose were within game drive distance of each other, they offered distinctly different experiences. The one thing that didn’t vary was the quality of service we experienced. Everyone we encountered went out of their way to ensure that our every need was met – sometimes before we’d even expressed it. The Serengeti is of course one of Africa’s great national parks, but the public areas can become relatively crowded – and not just with wildebeest. In contrast, the private Grumeti Reserves is very exclusive, hosting only a limited number of guests, and it’s clearly an approach that works for the wildlife and the local communities, with ecotourism operations having only the lightest of footprints. The savannah recovers quickly from the millions of wildebeest hooves; thousands of human visitors could have a much greater impact. We soon came to appreciate that space and time are perhaps the ultimate luxuries, and Grumeti delivered handsomely on both.