An al fresco breakfast on the guest-area deck is a wonderful way to start the day at Sirikoi.

Kenya | Private Conservancy & 1920s-style Safari | 6 Nights Lewa Wildlife Conservancy & The Masai Mara

Experience Kenyan hospitality and wildlife encounters on one of Kenya’s best safari itineraries. With your stay divided between Sirikoi and Cottar’s 1920s Camp, you’ll get to see the unique landscapes of both the ground-breaking Lewa Conservancy in Laikipia and the game-rich plains of the iconic Masai Mara National Reserve.

Three nights at Sirikoi

My nervousness about being in a light aircraft soon evaporated as I lost myself in the process of flying back in time from bustling Nairobi to a more tranquil era. Having arrived starving, I was thrilled to discover that the food at Sirikoi was delicious – many of the ingredients are grown organically on the property. After lunch we took tea on the deck of our luxury tent, then, while my partner headed out on a game drive with one of Sirikoi’s expert guides, I settled down to read – but found myself captivated by a family of elephant at the waterhole. Since our flight to Sirikoi was so easy I decided to step it up with a biplane sightseeing tour out towards Mount Kenya on our second day – what fun, right down to the retro leather cap and goggles! As we flew by the white peaks, I was amazed to see snow so close to the equator. Back on terra firma that afternoon, we chatted with other guests over G&Ts (Lewa is a malaria-free area, but you can never be too careful!). Then over dinner lit by old-fashioned lanterns, the thunderous roar of a lion reached us at the same moment as our desserts – even though I’d never heard this majestic sound before, there was no mistaking what it was. At dawn, we went out in search of the ‘crème brûlée lion’. He’d melted away in the night, but we spent a wonderful twenty minutes with a crash of white rhino just metres from our vehicle. Later, I found myself lifted into the air again – on the back of a camel! To sit down, the camel folds its legs underneath it like the blades on a Swiss Army knife – and to stand again, it pitches forward alarmingly, and then suddenly backwards. It’s side-to-side motion takes a little getting used to, but then it’s rather relaxing. Steering is another matter – our short walk involved several detours towards tasty cacti. They’re quite at home in Kenya’s drier northern regions.

My nervousness about being in a light aircraft soon evaporated as I lost myself in the process of flying back in time from bustling Nairobi to a more tranquil era. Having arrived starving, I was thrilled to discover that the food at Sirikoi was delicious – many of the ingredients are grown organically on the property. After lunch we took tea on the deck of our luxury tent, then, while my partner headed out on a game drive with one of Sirikoi’s expert guides, I settled down to read – but found myself captivated by a family of elephant at the waterhole.

Since our flight to Sirikoi was so easy I decided to step it up with a biplane sightseeing tour out towards Mount Kenya on our second day – what fun, right down to the retro leather cap and goggles! As we flew by the white peaks, I was amazed to see snow so close to the equator. Back on terra firma that afternoon, we chatted with other guests over G&Ts (Lewa is a malaria-free area, but you can never be too careful!). Then over dinner lit by old-fashioned lanterns, the thunderous roar of a lion reached us at the same moment as our desserts – even though I’d never heard this majestic sound before, there was no mistaking what it was.

At dawn, we went out in search of the ‘crème brûlée lion’. He’d melted away in the night, but we spent a wonderful twenty minutes with a crash of white rhino just metres from our vehicle. Later, I found myself lifted into the air again – on the back of a camel! To sit down, the camel folds its legs underneath it like the blades on a Swiss Army knife – and to stand again, it pitches forward alarmingly, and then suddenly backwards. It’s side-to-side motion takes a little getting used to, but then it’s rather relaxing. Steering is another matter – our short walk involved several detours towards tasty cacti. They’re quite at home in Kenya’s drier northern regions.

Three nights at Cottar’s 1920s Camp

As we flew southwards towards the Masai Mara the land became greener and more fertile, and soon we were in the heart of Great Wildebeest Migration territory. Our guide took us on a mini game drive on our way to Cottar’s 1920s Camp, and our eyes were drawn across the endless rolling plains which stretched in every direction. Solitary, wizened acacia trees gave us a sense of scale, and animals shimmered in the heat like mirages. In a dreamy state we arrived, and instantly fell in love with the camp, which recreates the golden age of exploration. Amid fluttering white canvas we enjoyed a sublime afternoon tea. Over breakfast in the dining tent the next morning, we swapped notes with our fellow guests, and were easily persuaded to head to a nearby rocky koppie, to swim and fish beneath a waterfall. The cool water and the tug of the silvery trout on the lines made for a perfect picnic excursion. Climbing the rocks, we had a 360-degree view of the plains, dotted with knots of zebra and wildebeest. These were just some of the many thousands that would be passing this way over the next few weeks. On our last afternoon, we took a last game drive to say farewell, and had a memorable sundowner stop under a lone tree. There was a refreshing coolness in the air as we made our way back to camp, and we wrapped ourselves in distinctive red Maasai shukas. Although we were dressed as warriors, we were still outdone by the liveried waiter who greeted us again on our return. I was thrilled to find that our antique claw-footed bath (how fitting for a safari) was already full of piping hot water and bubbles… What an end to our trip!

As we flew southwards towards the Masai Mara the land became greener and more fertile, and soon we were in the heart of Great Wildebeest Migration territory. Our guide took us on a mini game drive on our way to Cottar’s 1920s Camp, and our eyes were drawn across the endless rolling plains which stretched in every direction. Solitary, wizened acacia trees gave us a sense of scale, and animals shimmered in the heat like mirages. In a dreamy state we arrived, and instantly fell in love with the camp, which recreates the golden age of exploration. Amid fluttering white canvas we enjoyed a sublime afternoon tea.

Over breakfast in the dining tent the next morning, we swapped notes with our fellow guests, and were easily persuaded to head to a nearby rocky koppie, to swim and fish beneath a waterfall. The cool water and the tug of the silvery trout on the lines made for a perfect picnic excursion. Climbing the rocks, we had a 360-degree view of the plains, dotted with knots of zebra and wildebeest. These were just some of the many thousands that would be passing this way over the next few weeks.

On our last afternoon, we took a last game drive to say farewell, and had a memorable sundowner stop under a lone tree. There was a refreshing coolness in the air as we made our way back to camp, and we wrapped ourselves in distinctive red Maasai shukas. Although we were dressed as warriors, we were still outdone by the liveried waiter who greeted us again on our return. I was thrilled to find that our antique claw-footed bath (how fitting for a safari) was already full of piping hot water and bubbles… What an end to our trip!

What sets it apart

On our Kenya safari, we saw some of the best of this country in just six nights, from the jagged peaks of Mount Kenya to the Masai Mara’s abundant game. We felt very chuffed with the bespoke itinerary we’d had a hand in designing, as we managed to fit in a lot of experiences – on land and in the air! – without feeling rushed. Like all my favourite destinations, I intentionally left out a few things – like the hot-air balloon ride – to give me something to look forward to next time. This trip gave me a real taste for Africa – and for African cuisine – plus the service could not have been more professional. Plus we loved our stylish luxury tents at both Sirikoi and Cottars 1920s Camp. The Lewa Conservancy, where Sirikoi is situated, was once a progressive farm and is now a rhino sanctuary of global importance. It’s good to know that places exist where these threatened creatures can live in peace. I was similarly impressed with the enlightened management policies in the Masai Mara, where both the Maasai tribes and the wildlife benefit from the conservancies. That Cottar’s gives back to local communities and supports conservation made us very happy with our choice of camp. My Kenya safari trip took me back in time, but also gave me a glimpse of a bright future for Africa’s people and wildlife.

On our Kenya safari, we saw some of the best of this country in just six nights, from the jagged peaks of Mount Kenya to the Masai Mara’s abundant game. We felt very chuffed with the bespoke itinerary we’d had a hand in designing, as we managed to fit in a lot of experiences – on land and in the air! – without feeling rushed. Like all my favourite destinations, I intentionally left out a few things – like the hot-air balloon ride – to give me something to look forward to next time.

This trip gave me a real taste for Africa – and for African cuisine – plus the service could not have been more professional. Plus we loved our stylish luxury tents at both Sirikoi and Cottars 1920s Camp.

The Lewa Conservancy, where Sirikoi is situated, was once a progressive farm and is now a rhino sanctuary of global importance. It’s good to know that places exist where these threatened creatures can live in peace. I was similarly impressed with the enlightened management policies in the Masai Mara, where both the Maasai tribes and the wildlife benefit from the conservancies. That Cottar’s gives back to local communities and supports conservation made us very happy with our choice of camp.

My Kenya safari trip took me back in time, but also gave me a glimpse of a bright future for Africa’s people and wildlife.

Day 1–3

All guests get private safari vehicles at Sirikoi, so you can linger at rhino and other game viewings as long as you choose.

You’ll be met as you disembark from your international flight at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi, and assisted through customs and immigration. Following a private transfer to Wilson Airport, you’ll take a scheduled light aircraft flight to Laikipia. You’ll then take a transfer to Sirikoi Lodge, where you’ll spend three nights.

Day 4–6

You can enjoy bush dining in Kenya throughout the year. © Cottar’s 1920s Camp

After a transfer from Sirikoi Lodge to the airstrip, you’ll take a scheduled light aircraft flight to the Masai Mara. A transfer will take you to Cottar’s 1920s Camp, where you’ll spend three nights.

Day 7

Nairobi is the capital city of Kenya.

After a transfer from Cottar’s 1920s Camp to the airstrip, you’ll take a scheduled light aircraft flight to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. A private transfer will take you to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, where you’ll be assisted through check-in for your international flight.

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