Kenya | Safari Sanctuary, Masai Mara & Beach | 10 Nights Laikipia Plateau, The Masai Mara & Kenya South Coast

From the moment we first read about The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille, it was a must-see for us. Of course ‘must-see’ is something of a misnomer for Laikipia, a place to be experienced with all the senses. Our first day was one of ups and downs, but all of them positive: the descent onto the airstrip, then the drive up to the lodge before the short walk up to our villa, the Eyrie, with its commanding views out towards Mount Kenya. Then down again for our final ascent: clambering onto the saddles of the two beasts that took us on our first camel safari. We’d been told that we could start our morning game drive at any time we wanted to, and we took our guide at his word. Waiting for us to finish a leisurely breakfast did nothing to diminish his enthusiasm. He was quick to point out that many of the antelope we saw seemed nervous – a sure sign of a predator in the area. Despite a thorough search (‘No stone left unturned,’ he joked as he expertly guided the 4×4 vehicle down a rocky slope) we didn’t unearth a big cat this time around, but that took nothing away from the experience. With the inevitable puns about horsepower, we chose a horseback safari over a second game drive the next day. We both loved the slower pace, and observing the reactions of the game to seeing us. Sudden, excited twittering and quick flashes of patchwork fur meant that we were being overtaken by a pack of wild dog, who ran past us in pursuit of panicking impala. The superbly well-trained horses did not shy once, and brought us safely home. After the gentle motion of the horse, I indulged in a massage (and why not) while my partner read up on the history of Mount Kenya.

While my partner found time for a short birding walk with our guide, I discovered the most relaxing pre-flight ritual: a head-and-neck massage. Then it was time to ascend again, to fly to the Masai Mara. Elephant Pepper Camp takes its name from the trees under which its canvas tents nestle, and we soon saw that the number of elephant around the lodge was not to be sneezed at. We learned that the nearby natural springs make the grass irresistible to them, and there was barely a moment when at least one or two were not within sight. Our arrival had coincided with that of the Great Wildebeest Migration, and we took our afternoon tea to go to spend more time with the herds. As the sun set, they were beginning to mass above a river crossing. Early the next morning, we returned to the same spot, only to find that the wildebeest had chosen discretion over valour and withdrawn from the riverbank for the moment. The crocodile slowly cruising the muddy brown water would have to wait a while longer. As big fans of the BBC show Big Cat Diaries we were thrilled that Leopard Gorge was so close … but we hadn’t anticipated a bush breakfast halfway up a stone kopje. From there we could see the wildebeest gathering further along the river, and that gave us a great pointer for the afternoon game drive. While our fellow guests were prepared for a hot-air balloon flight over the herds, we laced up our boots for a more intimate look at the Mara North Conservancy. Our guide took us on a fascinating walking safari that led us ultimately to one of the local villages for an intriguing Maasai cultural experience. It was a morning of making tracks and friends, and gaining an understanding of how conservation benefits communities. At the elegantly set dinner table that night, knowing we were contributing to upliftment in the area meant that the luxury we were enjoying did not seem inappropriate.

We found that within Kenya, it only took a relatively short flight for us to be transported to a completely different world, and this flight took us from the maelstrom of migrating wildebeest to the calm, warm waters of the Kenya south-coast beaches. Whereas in the Mara we had been thrilled at the sound of thousands of hooves, the long crescent of sand in front of AfroChic Diani Beach was imprinted with human footprints. The moment we arrived, we strolled down to the water’s edge to soak up the ambience of the coast. Sea breezes carried the salt tang of the ocean and tugged at the sails of the dhows moored offshore. Returning to our ocean-view suite, we found a handwritten note inviting us to a starlit dinner for two under the waving palm fronds. The waiter poured the wine with polished precision, but my cup was running over.  After a wonderful night’s rest, we resumed our intensive recovery programme from the rigours of being on safari. Well, ‘rigours’ is perhaps an exaggeration, but a useful one when it comes to justifying spending the morning receiving the attentions of the spa team at AfroChic Diani Beach. The combination of expert hands and traditional techniques eased away our cares, and we all but floated out of the spa afterwards. The tide continued to recede during the afternoon, and we joined one of the local guides in walking out to the house reef. The busy lives of the tropical fish made for a wonderfully diverting snorkelling session.  Our introduction to the dazzling marine life and warm, clear waters of the reefs made us keen to go a little deeper the next morning, so we embarked on a snorkelling excursion in the nearby Kisite Mpunguti Marine Park. We were grateful that our guides were both qualified marine biologists who could point out some of the hidden gems in this living jewellery box, and then tell us all about them when we returned to the boat. Returning to Diani Beach, we were joined by a pod of dolphin that cavorted beneath the bow. We could certainly empathise with their sense of joy and freedom.  There’s always a sort of wistfulness about the last day of any holiday, and we knew that we would be saddened to leave Kenya. With that in mind, we made the most of our last full day to create more shared memories. We found that we didn’t need to take part in any organised activities. Rather, we took the time to reminisce about our safari experiences, and spend some quality time together relaxing in our suite and then taking our cocktails to the surf to watch the fishermen head out to sea as the light softened and finally faded.  

This Kenya safari really stood out for us for two main reasons: the sense of freedom we experienced, and the way in which each safari lodge was run with a view to ensuring that guests, local communities and wildlife all benefitted. We experienced the upliftment that we’ve always felt in pristine untrammelled wilderness; and also liberty from schedules and timetables. Each of the lodges we stayed at had their own distinct take on what true freedom meant, and each was equally wonderful. At The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille, we were delighted to find that we could wake up, eat, and go on safari (or not) at whatever time best suited us. We could also have as many massage treatments as we wished. The fact that our villa was attended to by a butler, valet, askari and private guide freed us from having to lift a finger. Elephant Pepper Camp’s definition of freedom was to take us back in time to a less hurried safari era, and to experience the incredible wildlife of the Masai Mara in much the same way that the first safari-goers did. This peaked with our magnificent walking safari. Our time at AfroChic Diani Beach was all about freedom and flexibility – with no fixed daily itinerary, we could take a beach walk on a whim and eat whenever the mood took us. Every aspect of our stay, from the design of our suite to the impeccable but unobtrusive service, was a tacit recognition that we were individuals with our own wants and needs – all of which were met in true Kenyan style.