Siwandu | Selous Game Reserve One Of Tanzania’s Best Safari Lodges

I’m almost loathe to reveal the secret beauty of southern Tanzania, so wonderful it is to relish the peace and quiet away from more well-tread safari routes. I’m just 200km west of Dar es Salaam, in the Selous, the largest reserve in Africa with one of its highest concentrations of wildlife. Siwandu, the safari camp we’ve chosen, is set among palms on the banks of Lake Nzerakera, part of the water tributaries of the Rufiji River. Our boat slowly drifts past it now, and a couple enjoying coffee on the raised viewing platform of the restaurant waves at us as we pass. Thomas, our guide, tells us that when the river passes through the Selous, it’s about 150km away from the Indian Ocean and just 5m above sea level. He explains that this causes the waterways to spread out, creating endless lakes and channels for us to explore on our water safari. Though it takes time for our eyes to pick up the movement of animals in the bush, Thomas points out herds of beautiful impala, patchwork giraffe that look like distant trees, and a crocodile disguised as a log. The cry of fish eagle – one of Africa’s most iconic sounds – breaks the silence. We scan the vast dry bushland, keeping an eye out for leopard lurking in the pockets of lush riverine forest.

We head back to camp at midday, when the languorous heat of the Selous makes us yearn for the pool. Along the way we hear the harrumph of a hippo, before it surfaces majestically. Thomas tells us they’re able to hold their breath for four or five minutes and although they appear to swim, they’re actually walking along the bottom of the river. We head to the wildlife reference library to grab some books and then make a beeline for the pool, where we lounge about and enjoy a tasty poolside lunch. Then it’s back to our thatch-roofed tent at South Camp, which is raised on a wooden platform under a palm canopy, with two verandahs to take best advantage of views over the lake. A quick spray-down in the adjoining open-air shower, and then I’m reclining in our king-sized bed under an overhead fan. This is the kind of camping I could get used to.

One of the highlights of our stay at Siwandu was the opportunity to enjoy one of Africa’s best water safaris, exploring the waterways of the Rufiji River by boat with the occasional stop for a spot of fishing. We also mixed things up with morning and afternoon game drives and guided walking safaris, which made every day unique. The reserve is also home to Africa’s largest populations of wild dog and elephant, both of which we were privileged to see, the latter from our private deck!

• Lovely tented camp with 13 tented suites split into two sections, each with their own swimming pool, dining and lounge areas. It’s possible to book either North Camp or South Camp on a private basis.
• Private dining available, private vehicle available (additional cost) and flexible schedules.
• Game drives, walking safaris, boat cruises, swimming and stargazing.
• Children six years and older are welcome, but only two children are permitted at each camp at any time. 1. Children’s walks available (additional cost).

• Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
• It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
• Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you.  Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
• However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.