There’s a delightful contrast between the vast spaces of Ruaha and the intimate comforts of Kigelia Ruaha, one of Tanzania’s best safari lodges where true African luxury is defined as spending time in pristine wilderness – with elephant for neighbours and plenty of time to appreciate the wonders of the bush.
On arrival at Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania, I can’t help but think it’s a land of giants, with its tumescent baobabs and curious bull elephant dominating the landscape. ‘Ruaha is defined by the Great Ruaha River and the dry beds of seasonal watercourses. It’s the presence of water that makes the game viewing so prolific,’ says Watson, our driver. ‘And note how the undulating terrain is punctuated by rocky koppies, beloved of leopard and dassies.’ As we approach Kigelia Ruaha, we see that it’s nestled beneath a grove of distinctive sausage trees, which give the camp both its delicious pools of shade and its name. Looking up, we see their pendulous fruits swaying in the breeze; turning our attention down, we notice that the sandy ground of the camp is crisscrossed by tracks both large and small, underlining the fact that this is a safari lodge that’s an authentic part of its surroundings.
On arrival at Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania, I can’t help but think it’s a land of giants, with its tumescent baobabs and curious bull elephant dominating the landscape.
‘Ruaha is defined by the Great Ruaha River and the dry beds of seasonal watercourses. It’s the presence of water that makes the game viewing so prolific,’ says Watson, our driver. ‘And note how the undulating terrain is punctuated by rocky koppies, beloved of leopard and dassies.’
As we approach Kigelia Ruaha, we see that it’s nestled beneath a grove of distinctive sausage trees, which give the camp both its delicious pools of shade and its name. Looking up, we see their pendulous fruits swaying in the breeze; turning our attention down, we notice that the sandy ground of the camp is crisscrossed by tracks both large and small, underlining the fact that this is a safari lodge that’s an authentic part of its surroundings.
Our tent has a barely-there feel thanks to the mesh panels which let the breeze dance through. As we explore inside, the manager ties back the panels to bring the surrounding bush even closer. She tells us that the pale wooden furniture is locally made; along with the candy-striped cushions, the interior has a soothing palette, while the adjoining outdoor shower is decorated, in shifts, by sun and stars. Standing on our private verandah, the perfect place for an afternoon’s reading, we look over towards the main area. There’s a reassuring familiarity about the design of the thatch-roofed dining area, undoubtedly because Kigelia Ruaha looks exactly like a safari camp should, blending into its surroundings incredibly well. In fact, I have to take a second glance to be sure that it’s there at all…
Our tent has a barely-there feel thanks to the mesh panels which let the breeze dance through. As we explore inside, the manager ties back the panels to bring the surrounding bush even closer.
She tells us that the pale wooden furniture is locally made; along with the candy-striped cushions, the interior has a soothing palette, while the adjoining outdoor shower is decorated, in shifts, by sun and stars.
Standing on our private verandah, the perfect place for an afternoon’s reading, we look over towards the main area. There’s a reassuring familiarity about the design of the thatch-roofed dining area, undoubtedly because Kigelia Ruaha looks exactly like a safari camp should, blending into its surroundings incredibly well. In fact, I have to take a second glance to be sure that it’s there at all…
Kigelia Ruaha is a small camp, with just six guest tents. This contributes to a feeling that we’re not intruders here, and instead raises hopes that we can truly assimilate with the bush. There is a real focus on the essence of safari here; everything unnecessary has been pared away … which is not at all the same as saying that this is a basic accommodation option; luxurious touches and genuine, caring service are deemed just as important as spending time in unspoiled nature. Kigelia Ruaha is set apart in a literal sense; it’s remote enough to be within easy reach of best safari experiences that southern Tanzania has to offer. The camp is set up as a base from which to explore the surrounding bush, and to provide a comfortable sanctuary at the end of each day’s adventures. A product of its environment, Kigelia Ruaha feels as though it belongs; in terms of design, philosophy and experience, it’s an entirely appropriate addition to the landscape and its welcome luxuries take nothing away from the experience. My ultimate highlight here? Ruaha’s fiery sunsets, which are punctuated with arboreal silhouettes.
Kigelia Ruaha is a small camp, with just six guest tents. This contributes to a feeling that we’re not intruders here, and instead raises hopes that we can truly assimilate with the bush.
There is a real focus on the essence of safari here; everything unnecessary has been pared away … which is not at all the same as saying that this is a basic accommodation option; luxurious touches and genuine, caring service are deemed just as important as spending time in unspoiled nature.
Kigelia Ruaha is set apart in a literal sense; it’s remote enough to be within easy reach of best safari experiences that southern Tanzania has to offer. The camp is set up as a base from which to explore the surrounding bush, and to provide a comfortable sanctuary at the end of each day’s adventures.
A product of its environment, Kigelia Ruaha feels as though it belongs; in terms of design, philosophy and experience, it’s an entirely appropriate addition to the landscape and its welcome luxuries take nothing away from the experience. My ultimate highlight here? Ruaha’s fiery sunsets, which are punctuated with arboreal silhouettes.
Crowding is never an issue in the southern parks, so you only really need to consider climatic factors when planning your safari. At this time, warm, sunny days give way to comfortably cool evenings. After the long rains, June is very lush, although the vegetation becomes sparser as the dry season continues. This means it’s easier to see and photograph game, and makes this the best time to be in Ruaha and the Selous. If you’d like to see the Great Wildebeest Migration crossing the Grumeti River, combine your southern Tanzania safari with a stop in the Serengeti now too.
These months provide a welcome window between rains, and begin with the savannah at its greenest. It soon begins to dry up, causing game to concentrate at the few places that retain water, making viewing great! In southern Tanzania, the great rivers of Ruaha National Park and the Selous Game Reserve become the focal points for condensed wildlife spotting. Arriving migratory birds (such as the white storks in Ruaha) lifts birding to a new level. If you’d like to pair a visit here now with something particularly special, pop over to the southern Serengeti, where you’ll be able to witness the wildebeest calving season.
These months are the rainiest in southern Tanzania, just as they are in the north of the country. Heavy showers and higher temperatures deter most visitors, although if you really want to have Ruaha or the Selous to yourself, this is the time to go. During the wet seasons you can watch immense tropical storms, and vegetation miraculously springing back to life after each dry season. These are some of the most beautiful times of year to be here, with flowers blooming and young animals being born. Just bring a raincoat!
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This luxury Tanzania safari – one of Tanzania’s best safari itineraries – is a journey in many senses: from witnessing wildebeest calves in the Serengeti begin their own voyage, to journeying into the Earth at the Ngorongoro Crater, back in time at Olduvai Gorge, or off the map in Ruaha…
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