Beho Beho | Best Tanzania Safari Lodges

The place

The first thing that strikes us as we drive into the Selous Game Reserve is how the light casts the baobab-speckled plains in liquid gold; indeed, the 55,000 square kilometres of uninhabited wilderness that forms Africa’s largest single game reserve is covered in its molten glow. As we approach the hill ahead, eight bandas come into focus, perched upon its lower slopes. We’re staying at Tanzania’s Beho Beho, the first camp to be sited in the northern sector of the reserve and perhaps the most private – home to the Bailey family for more than 40 years. We leap out eagerly as the Land Cruiser comes to a stop, enjoying the cool breezes after which the camp is named.

The first thing that strikes us as we drive into the Selous Game Reserve is how the light casts the baobab-speckled plains in liquid gold; indeed, the 55,000 square kilometres of uninhabited wilderness that forms Africa’s largest single game reserve is covered in its molten glow.

As we approach the hill ahead, eight bandas come into focus, perched upon its lower slopes. We’re staying at Tanzania’s Beho Beho, the first camp to be sited in the northern sector of the reserve and perhaps the most private – home to the Bailey family for more than 40 years. We leap out eagerly as the Land Cruiser comes to a stop, enjoying the cool breezes after which the camp is named.

The room

Whether I’m in relaxing in the Zanzibari daybed, writing a postcard at the rather British writing desk or curled up in a chair, our three-walled Beho Beho banda allows me to see the endless greens, browns and yellows of the African landscape, scattered with baobabs and the occasional tamarind tree. The open design of our stone-and-thatch cottage helps capture even the slightest breeze, and there’s a wide-blade ceiling fan for extra help in keeping cool. I was quite nervous to sleep ‘in the open’, but a tented curtain zips us in at night. I scan the waterhole outside with my mounted telescope, which confirms my suspicion that a giraffe is approaching. Several moments pass, before the sound of a hairdryer – so surreal in this location – reminds me that I too should get ready for dinner. Later, sitting at the central lounge and bar area (which too has an open front, overlooking the floodlit waterhole and the plains beyond), it’s not hard to see why this place is often called a home away from home. The conversation flows, a lively game of billiards is underway, and the meal is shared communally. Before we sit down, I wander around, discovering snapshots of the Bailey family on the walls, coffee-table books, Persian rugs and African carvings. I find an interesting library with old maps and historical artefacts from the nearby First World War battlefield (where conservationist Frederick Courteney Selous, after whom the reserve is named, lost his life). It’s such a privilege to be able to share this wonderful family home in the bush.

Whether I’m in relaxing in the Zanzibari daybed, writing a postcard at the rather British writing desk or curled up in a chair, our three-walled Beho Beho banda allows me to see the endless greens, browns and yellows of the African landscape, scattered with baobabs and the occasional tamarind tree.

The open design of our stone-and-thatch cottage helps capture even the slightest breeze, and there’s a wide-blade ceiling fan for extra help in keeping cool. I was quite nervous to sleep ‘in the open’, but a tented curtain zips us in at night. I scan the waterhole outside with my mounted telescope, which confirms my suspicion that a giraffe is approaching. Several moments pass, before the sound of a hairdryer – so surreal in this location – reminds me that I too should get ready for dinner.

Later, sitting at the central lounge and bar area (which too has an open front, overlooking the floodlit waterhole and the plains beyond), it’s not hard to see why this place is often called a home away from home. The conversation flows, a lively game of billiards is underway, and the meal is shared communally.

Before we sit down, I wander around, discovering snapshots of the Bailey family on the walls, coffee-table books, Persian rugs and African carvings. I find an interesting library with old maps and historical artefacts from the nearby First World War battlefield (where conservationist Frederick Courteney Selous, after whom the reserve is named, lost his life). It’s such a privilege to be able to share this wonderful family home in the bush.

What sets it apart

I loved being able to go on game drives with every guide at camp – it gave us such a varied, insightful experience. It also gave us the opportunity to get the know the full team, making us really feel like we were staying with a group of friends. Wonderfully, we didn’t run into a single other safari vehicle during our stay, which highlighted how exclusive the place is. We also particularly enjoyed Beho Beho’s other exciting activities – from boating safaris on the crocodile-infested Lake Tagalala to sleeping in the treehouse!

I loved being able to go on game drives with every guide at camp – it gave us such a varied, insightful experience. It also gave us the opportunity to get the know the full team, making us really feel like we were staying with a group of friends.

Wonderfully, we didn’t run into a single other safari vehicle during our stay, which highlighted how exclusive the place is. We also particularly enjoyed Beho Beho’s other exciting activities – from boating safaris on the crocodile-infested Lake Tagalala to sleeping in the treehouse!

At a glance

Exclusive lodge in the northern Selous Game Reserve with swimming pool. Accommodation options include eight bandas, an exclusive-use house (with its own swimming pool) and a treehouse suite.
Family-style hosting, flexible schedules and varied guiding. Private chef, guide and vehicle for guests staying at Bailey’s Banda house.
Game drives, birding, Lake Tagalala boat trip, hot springs, walking safaris, Rufiji River Delta boat safaris and the overnight treehouse experience (additional cost).
Children are welcome from 12 years old.

Exclusive lodge in the northern Selous Game Reserve with swimming pool. Accommodation options include eight bandas, an exclusive-use house (with its own swimming pool) and a treehouse suite.
Family-style hosting, flexible schedules and varied guiding. Private chef, guide and vehicle for guests staying at Bailey’s Banda house.
Game drives, birding, Lake Tagalala boat trip, hot springs, walking safaris, Rufiji River Delta boat safaris and the overnight treehouse experience (additional cost).
Children are welcome from 12 years old.

Prices

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.