Greystoke Mahale | Best Tanzania Safari Lodges

The place

I sit at the bar at the end of a sandy, white beach, enjoying a cocktail as the setting sun casts the sky in streaks of gold and orange, crimson and indigo blue, like the bold strokes on an artist’s canvas. Inaccessible by road, it takes a journey by plane and dhow to get here, which only makes Greystoke Mahale seem more exclusive. I’m swept away by the remote and rugged beauty of the lodge’s setting: on the silvery shores of Lake Tanganyika in the Mahale Mountains National Park of western Tanzania. I feel a small shiver of excitement as I contemplate chimp trekking in the forests that reach up into the almost 2,500m-high Mahale Mountains, which has the biggest population of chimps in the world. There’s no telling what tomorrow may hold.

I sit at the bar at the end of a sandy, white beach, enjoying a cocktail as the setting sun casts the sky in streaks of gold and orange, crimson and indigo blue, like the bold strokes on an artist’s canvas. Inaccessible by road, it takes a journey by plane and dhow to get here, which only makes Greystoke Mahale seem more exclusive.

I’m swept away by the remote and rugged beauty of the lodge’s setting: on the silvery shores of Lake Tanganyika in the Mahale Mountains National Park of western Tanzania. I feel a small shiver of excitement as I contemplate chimp trekking in the forests that reach up into the almost 2,500m-high Mahale Mountains, which has the biggest population of chimps in the world. There’s no telling what tomorrow may hold.

The room

Kayaking leisurely across the lake, we can see Greystoke Mahale’s main building, inspired by the architectural style of the local Kitongwe people. Our banda is backed by the looming Mahale Mountains, tucked into the treeline where the forest meets the sand – virtually invisible to us and any passing fishermen. As our oar hits the water, I see a multitude of fish swimming in the clear waters beneath. Sun kissed, we happily return to our banda, built of thatch and wood from salvaged dhows. It’s open to views of the lake and beach, with canvas drapes that can be closed during bad weather. We save resting on the canopied bed for later, relaxing at the upstairs sitting area instead. A short while later and we’re trekking into completely different surroundings, following a narrow path into the dense forest with a soundtrack of birds, insects and the occasional pant-hoots of chimpanzees reverberating in the forest canopy. We’re one of three groups of six allowed into the forest per day, and should we find the chimps, we’re permitted only one hour of their company. Of course, finding them is half the fun. Wearing surgical-like face masks to prevent passing any germs onto the chimps, we crunch across the forest floor, and suddenly see them, swinging amid the trees. An offshoot of chimps groom each other with intent as our camera shutters whirr. Then they’re off, moving at surprising speed through the jungle-like forest as our guides, with exceptional skill and instinct, keep us on track, following them across the forest floor.

Kayaking leisurely across the lake, we can see Greystoke Mahale’s main building, inspired by the architectural style of the local Kitongwe people. Our banda is backed by the looming Mahale Mountains, tucked into the treeline where the forest meets the sand – virtually invisible to us and any passing fishermen. As our oar hits the water, I see a multitude of fish swimming in the clear waters beneath.

Sun kissed, we happily return to our banda, built of thatch and wood from salvaged dhows. It’s open to views of the lake and beach, with canvas drapes that can be closed during bad weather. We save resting on the canopied bed for later, relaxing at the upstairs sitting area instead.

A short while later and we’re trekking into completely different surroundings, following a narrow path into the dense forest with a soundtrack of birds, insects and the occasional pant-hoots of chimpanzees reverberating in the forest canopy. We’re one of three groups of six allowed into the forest per day, and should we find the chimps, we’re permitted only one hour of their company. Of course, finding them is half the fun.

Wearing surgical-like face masks to prevent passing any germs onto the chimps, we crunch across the forest floor, and suddenly see them, swinging amid the trees. An offshoot of chimps groom each other with intent as our camera shutters whirr. Then they’re off, moving at surprising speed through the jungle-like forest as our guides, with exceptional skill and instinct, keep us on track, following them across the forest floor.

What sets it apart

Though Greystoke Mahale has modern comforts like hot showers and canopied beds, its focus is on providing authentic chimpanzee encounters, with daily guided treks into the forest. Habituated to humans by Japanese researchers who studied them for over 30 years, the chimps tolerated our presence, allowing us to witness the subtleties of their different relationships, from courtship, to in-fighting, leisurely grooming and games like tag. We even saw a mother teaching her baby to use a leaf stem as a tool for catching and eating ants. This remarkable experience, combined with the otherworldly beauty of Lake Tanganyika and the surrounding forest, make this one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.

Though Greystoke Mahale has modern comforts like hot showers and canopied beds, its focus is on providing authentic chimpanzee encounters, with daily guided treks into the forest.

Habituated to humans by Japanese researchers who studied them for over 30 years, the chimps tolerated our presence, allowing us to witness the subtleties of their different relationships, from courtship, to in-fighting, leisurely grooming and games like tag. We even saw a mother teaching her baby to use a leaf stem as a tool for catching and eating ants.

This remarkable experience, combined with the otherworldly beauty of Lake Tanganyika and the surrounding forest, make this one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets.

At a glance

Remote, authentic and sustainable lodge with six bandas set on the edge of the forest overlooking Lake Tanganyika.
Exclusive chimp-trekking experiences with highly trained guides, private dining available and flexible schedules.
Chimp trekking, birding, swimming at the waterfalls, fishing, kayaking (additional cost), forest walks, waterfall hikes, cultural visits and sundowners.
Children from eight are welcome, but chimp trekking not permitted for under 12s. One banda can be made into a triple, for a child.

Remote, authentic and sustainable lodge with six bandas set on the edge of the forest overlooking Lake Tanganyika.
Exclusive chimp-trekking experiences with highly trained guides, private dining available and flexible schedules.
Chimp trekking, birding, swimming at the waterfalls, fishing, kayaking (additional cost), forest walks, waterfall hikes, cultural visits and sundowners.
Children from eight are welcome, but chimp trekking not permitted for under 12s. One banda can be made into a triple, for a child.

Prices

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.