Saruni Rhino | Best Kenya Safari Lodges

The place

A short flight transports us to the Sera Community Conservancy. The clusters of doum palms are a distinctive feature of the parched landscape, and we imagine that each one marks an oasis. Which is entirely appropriate, given that we’re arriving in a place of sanctuary. Distant mountains fade to blue in the haze, and closer at hand, each acacia bush we pass seems as though it would offer perfect shade and snacks for a black rhino. We notice that the sandy ground is covered in tracks, many of them heading to the nearest waterhole. It’s a landscape that looks as though survival could be challenging – and indeed, only specialist dry country creatures like the Samburu Special Five succeed in thriving here. Saruni Rhino is the smallest Kenya safari lodge that we’ve seen, but its rustic charms manage to hold their own against the spectacular views. The leaning palms lead our eyes across the dry Kauro lugga (riverbed) and into the thorny scrub where our quarry waits.

A short flight transports us to the Sera Community Conservancy. The clusters of doum palms are a distinctive feature of the parched landscape, and we imagine that each one marks an oasis. Which is entirely appropriate, given that we’re arriving in a place of sanctuary.

Distant mountains fade to blue in the haze, and closer at hand, each acacia bush we pass seems as though it would offer perfect shade and snacks for a black rhino. We notice that the sandy ground is covered in tracks, many of them heading to the nearest waterhole. It’s a landscape that looks as though survival could be challenging – and indeed, only specialist dry country creatures like the Samburu Special Five succeed in thriving here.

Saruni Rhino is the smallest Kenya safari lodge that we’ve seen, but its rustic charms manage to hold their own against the spectacular views. The leaning palms lead our eyes across the dry Kauro lugga (riverbed) and into the thorny scrub where our quarry waits.

The room

The open walls of our thatched banda give the breezes free rein, and allow our eyes to wander where they will. The thatched roof and cool stone flagging floor counteracts the northern Kenyan heat, and revive our slightly wilted spirits. I love the elegant simplicity of our new home – everything we need, but nothing superfluous. The colourful rugs and bedspread add an exotic but homely touch, and stepping outside we discover the director’s chairs and swinging daybed where I can already see myself enjoying a siesta. Paraffin lanterns and old leather trunks remind us that this is an exploration – we’re in largely uncharted territory, and we’re quick to appreciate that this is a luxury in itself. A short distance away, across the sand, I discover a bench cut from an old boat. It’s marooned now on the dry riverbed, but, filled with cushions, it has been repurposed to take people on a different kind of voyage.

The open walls of our thatched banda give the breezes free rein, and allow our eyes to wander where they will. The thatched roof and cool stone flagging floor counteracts the northern Kenyan heat, and revive our slightly wilted spirits.

I love the elegant simplicity of our new home – everything we need, but nothing superfluous. The colourful rugs and bedspread add an exotic but homely touch, and stepping outside we discover the director’s chairs and swinging daybed where I can already see myself enjoying a siesta.

Paraffin lanterns and old leather trunks remind us that this is an exploration – we’re in largely uncharted territory, and we’re quick to appreciate that this is a luxury in itself. A short distance away, across the sand, I discover a bench cut from an old boat. It’s marooned now on the dry riverbed, but, filled with cushions, it has been repurposed to take people on a different kind of voyage.

What sets it apart

Saruni Rhino’s biggest drawcard is of course the fact that it’s the only Kenya safari lodge from which black rhino can be tracked on foot. It’s not just these endangered creatures who find sanctuary here, however – Saruni Rhino offers next level getting away from it all. It’s a little simpler than some of the other lodges we’ve stayed at, but loses nothing for that. The incredible setting, intimate scale of the bandas and communal eating and relaxation area, and opportunity to spend more time with our Samburu guides, makes our two-night stay here seem all too short. And then, of course, there are the cantankerous stars of the show. Black rhino are notoriously tetchy, but given that their shared history with humans hasn’t been a happy one, they could be forgiven a certain degree of mistrust towards us. Simply by spending time here, we feel that we’re making our own small contribution to the safety of the rhino population – and it’s a good feeling.

Saruni Rhino’s biggest drawcard is of course the fact that it’s the only Kenya safari lodge from which black rhino can be tracked on foot. It’s not just these endangered creatures who find sanctuary here, however – Saruni Rhino offers next level getting away from it all.

It’s a little simpler than some of the other lodges we’ve stayed at, but loses nothing for that. The incredible setting, intimate scale of the bandas and communal eating and relaxation area, and opportunity to spend more time with our Samburu guides, makes our two-night stay here seem all too short.

And then, of course, there are the cantankerous stars of the show. Black rhino are notoriously tetchy, but given that their shared history with humans hasn’t been a happy one, they could be forgiven a certain degree of mistrust towards us.

Simply by spending time here, we feel that we’re making our own small contribution to the safety of the rhino population – and it’s a good feeling.

At a glance

Small, intimate lodge with two open, thatched bandas in the shade of a knot of palm trees in northern Kenya, with views across a dry riverbed to the arid, thorny scrublands beyond – ideal black rhino habitat.
Accommodation for just six guests at a time, flexible schedules, private vehicles available (additional cost) and the only lodge in East Africa from which black rhino can be tracked on foot.
Game drives, walking safaris, rhino tracking on foot, bush dinners and picnics, bush sundowners, Mount Ololokwe excursions (additional cost), Reteti Elephant Sanctuary visits (additional cost) and tours of local attractions like the Fifty Wells.
Children welcome, with one open-plan family banda, sleeping four. Those under 16 can’t participate in rhino-tracking activities, but there’s a Warriors Academy bush skills programme.

Small, intimate lodge with two open, thatched bandas in the shade of a knot of palm trees in northern Kenya, with views across a dry riverbed to the arid, thorny scrublands beyond – ideal black rhino habitat.
Accommodation for just six guests at a time, flexible schedules, private vehicles available (additional cost) and the only lodge in East Africa from which black rhino can be tracked on foot.
Game drives, walking safaris, rhino tracking on foot, bush dinners and picnics, bush sundowners, Mount Ololokwe excursions (additional cost), Reteti Elephant Sanctuary visits (additional cost) and tours of local attractions like the Fifty Wells.
Children welcome, with one open-plan family banda, sleeping four. Those under 16 can’t participate in rhino-tracking activities, but there’s a Warriors Academy bush skills programme.

Prices

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.

Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.