Bottle feed baby rhino at Lewa Wilderness, one of Kenya’s best safari lodges with dramatic Mount Kenya views. Set in 25,000ha of remote wilderness in northern Kenya, this family-run establishment offers the chance to explore the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy on foot, by horse or camel, in a safari vehicle or from a biplane!
Lewa Wilderness | Lewa Conservancy One Of Kenya’s Best Safari Lodges
The place
From above, the plains are a rich tapestry of golds, ambers and greens. The dormant volcanic plugs and craters of Mount Kenya – Africa’s second highest mountain – are ahead of us, just the other side of the equator. We circle above Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, 25,000ha of conserved land just 250km from Nairobi. As we approach Lewa Airstip I spot the thatched cottages of Lewa Wilderness beneath us, and try figure out which one is ours. We’d arrived yesterday by road you see, so this morning we couldn’t resist a spin in the luxury Kenya safari lodge’s open-cockpit Waco biplane, to see the area from the air. The bright yellow biplane, much like the one Robert Redford piloted in Out of Africa, lands as gently as a butterfly on a leaf. I pull off my aviator helmet as the engine slowly quietens. Will Craig, our pilot and the lodge owner, gives us a hand and we leap out of the plane, exhilarated.
From above, the plains are a rich tapestry of golds, ambers and greens. The dormant volcanic plugs and craters of Mount Kenya – Africa’s second highest mountain – are ahead of us, just the other side of the equator. We circle above Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, 25,000ha of conserved land just 250km from Nairobi. As we approach Lewa Airstip I spot the thatched cottages of Lewa Wilderness beneath us, and try figure out which one is ours. We’d arrived yesterday by road you see, so this morning we couldn’t resist a spin in the luxury Kenya safari lodge’s open-cockpit Waco biplane, to see the area from the air.
The bright yellow biplane, much like the one Robert Redford piloted in Out of Africa, lands as gently as a butterfly on a leaf. I pull off my aviator helmet as the engine slowly quietens. Will Craig, our pilot and the lodge owner, gives us a hand and we leap out of the plane, exhilarated.
The room
Lewa Wilderness is one of Kenya’s oldest safari operations. The Craig family ran the land as a cattle ranch from 1922 before turning their focus to conservation and tourism in the 1970s. As we walk back through the lounge and dining area, we take a moment to appreciate the fine antique and handmade furniture the Craig family has collected over the years. Upon check-in we were given the choice of a hillside cottage, overlooking the valley and river, or a garden cottage set in the beautifully manicured lawns. It was a tough decision: the hillside cottages promise sightings of animals as they come to drink, while the garden cottages are nearer to the main areas and were the original rooms built when the Craigs started the lodge. All of them have sitting rooms with fully stocked bars and fireplaces, so no competition there. We reach our hillside cottage, which already feels like home. It’s decorated with handmade wooden furniture and a spacious four-poster bed that overlooks the wilderness through open windows. Although our biplane adventure feels unforgettable, I sit down at the writing desk to pen my account of this incredible day. Later, we join the other guests to sip on cocktails while taking in the views of endless scrubby bush and a vivid African sky. When dinner is ready we all head to the long banquet table in the open-air dining room, where the stories continue into the night, setting us off into gales of laughter. Princes William and Harry once came to stay here, yet somehow Lewa Wilderness, which is fit for royalty, feels remarkably like a family home.
Lewa Wilderness is one of Kenya’s oldest safari operations. The Craig family ran the land as a cattle ranch from 1922 before turning their focus to conservation and tourism in the 1970s. As we walk back through the lounge and dining area, we take a moment to appreciate the fine antique and handmade furniture the Craig family has collected over the years.
Upon check-in we were given the choice of a hillside cottage, overlooking the valley and river, or a garden cottage set in the beautifully manicured lawns. It was a tough decision: the hillside cottages promise sightings of animals as they come to drink, while the garden cottages are nearer to the main areas and were the original rooms built when the Craigs started the lodge. All of them have sitting rooms with fully stocked bars and fireplaces, so no competition there.
We reach our hillside cottage, which already feels like home. It’s decorated with handmade wooden furniture and a spacious four-poster bed that overlooks the wilderness through open windows. Although our biplane adventure feels unforgettable, I sit down at the writing desk to pen my account of this incredible day.
Later, we join the other guests to sip on cocktails while taking in the views of endless scrubby bush and a vivid African sky. When dinner is ready we all head to the long banquet table in the open-air dining room, where the stories continue into the night, setting us off into gales of laughter. Princes William and Harry once came to stay here, yet somehow Lewa Wilderness, which is fit for royalty, feels remarkably like a family home.
What sets it apart
I can’t emphasise enough how glorious it is to see the Mount Kenya and the Laikipia plains from a tiny open-cockpit biplane – what an absolutely magnificent experience! Another highlight is the abundance of rhino here in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, as it boasts one of Africa’s most successful rhino-protection programmes. Indeed, it’s no surprise that this award-winning model for community conservation was named a Unesco World Heritage Site. By staying at this welcoming family-style lodge, you’re in turn supporting its conservation and community-development endeavours. You might even get rewarded by being able to feed a baby rhino!
I can’t emphasise enough how glorious it is to see the Mount Kenya and the Laikipia plains from a tiny open-cockpit biplane – what an absolutely magnificent experience! Another highlight is the abundance of rhino here in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, as it boasts one of Africa’s most successful rhino-protection programmes. Indeed, it’s no surprise that this award-winning model for community conservation was named a Unesco World Heritage Site. By staying at this welcoming family-style lodge, you’re in turn supporting its conservation and community-development endeavours. You might even get rewarded by being able to feed a baby rhino!
At a glance
- Unique family-run safari lodge situated in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. It has 10 thatched cottages (including three family cottages) with swimming pool, stables and biplane.
- Private conservancy, private vehicles (additional cost) and flexible schedules.
- Game drives, night drives, walking safaris, horse riding, camel riding, fly camping (additional cost), biplane trips (additional cost), Ngare Ndare Forest day trips (additional cost), cultural visits, prehistoric site visits, Lewa Crafts Furniture and Kifuma Weaving visits, and Pepo la Tumaini HIV/Aids orphanage, clinic and senior school visit.
- Children welcome and family cottages available. Complimentary babysitting offered.
- Unique family-run safari lodge situated in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. It has 10 thatched cottages (including three family cottages) with swimming pool, stables and biplane.
- Private conservancy, private vehicles (additional cost) and flexible schedules.
- Game drives, night drives, walking safaris, horse riding, camel riding, fly camping (additional cost), biplane trips (additional cost), Ngare Ndare Forest day trips (additional cost), cultural visits, prehistoric site visits, Lewa Crafts Furniture and Kifuma Weaving visits, and Pepo la Tumaini HIV/Aids orphanage, clinic and senior school visit.
- Children welcome and family cottages available. Complimentary babysitting offered.
Prices
- Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
- It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
- Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
- However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.
- Not only do African safari lodge prices shift with the seasons, they also change based on your length of stay, room type, travel party composition, special offers, if your trip involves stays at sister lodges – and for more reasons besides.
- It’s worth noting that depending on your itinerary, your lodge cost will make up about 75–85% of your total safari trip cost.
- Our safaris are tailor-made to match your personal safari dream, we’d be delighted if you’d allow us to create a bespoke proposal for you. Simply enquire now – our quotes are complimentary and obligation-free.
- However, to help you get an idea of safari lodge prices we’ve created three safari-lodge categories with various price ranges, to find out more click here.
Gallery
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Lewa Wilderness has 10 thatched cottages for guests. © Lewa Wilderness
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There are cheetah to be seen on your game drives from Lewa Wilderness. © Lewa Wilderness
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This spacious four-poster bed at Lewa Wilderness overlooks the conservancy through open windows. © Lewa Wilderness
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Start the day with a delicious breakfast overlooking the conservancy at Lewa Wilderness. © Lewa Wilderness
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Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, where Lewa Wilderness is located, boasts one of Africa’s most successful rhino-protection programmes. © Lewa Wilderness
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© Lewa Wilderness
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The hillside cottages at Lewa Wilderness have views of the valley and river. © Lewa Wilderness
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When to Go
This is prime time for a safari in northern Kenya. The weather is dry and cool, making conditions perfect in this arid part of the country. It’s just after the long rains, so while the bush is initially lush it gets progressively sparser, making wildlife easier to spot. A trip to northern Kenya at this time of year is best combined with a visit to the Masai Mara, where you’ll be able to see the Great Wildebeest Migration from July to September.
In this period following the short rains, the dry season takes hold and the vegetation thins out completely. The animals congregate near water sources – particularly the Ngiro River, which makes its way from the Laikipia highlands to Samburu and beyond – so the game viewing is excellent, plus there are fewer people around to share your sightings with. To round off your safari experience, visit Tanzania now too, where you’ll catch the southern Serengeti leg of the Great Wildebeest Migration, as well as the wildebeest’s dramatic birthing season.
Kenya’s long rains, which fall steadily throughout April and May, are followed by short rains in November – generally quick afternoon bursts. While muddy roads can make getting around a bit tricky, the drier north is the best place to be in Kenya at this time of year. It’s a quiet time for tourism, so wildlife experiences are exclusive, and as the vegetation is in a growth period, game sightings are plentiful. All in all visitors get good-value holidays now, provided they pack their sense of humour (and their gum boots!).
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